Daring Cooks--Pierogis

The August 2010 Daring Cooks’ Challenge was hosted by LizG of Bits n’ Bites and Anula of Anula’s Kitchen. They chose to challenge Daring Cooks to make pierogi from scratch and an optional challenge to provide one filling that best represents their locale.

We're a little late on this challenge, but better late than never, I suppose. The pierogi challenge led to all sorts of brainstorming and we came up with a lot of different potential fillings. But in the we end decided to, for the most part, stick with the standard recipe.

The original recipe contained potatoes with cheese, onion,  and bacon, and we added cheddar cheese and a roasted poblano pepper. We also decided to serve the pierogies with a corn sauce in order to make the dish a bit more seasonally appropriate. Ultimately, though, we sort of served the corn on the side, rather than as a sauce because we just wanted to get the heck out of the kitchen.

The corn 'sauce,' by the way, was our super-fabulous Creamless Creamed Corn. If you don't really feel like going to the trouble of making your own pierogies, we would still really suggest making the creamless creamed corn, because it's awesome.

Because I prefer pierogies that have been boiled then pan-seared, we went with that technique, but it's entirely optional. The original recipe called for what seemed to me to be a small amount of dough, and we had a ton of leftover filling. This wasn't really a problem, as the filling was delicious, but in the recipe below I've tripled the dough recipe in an attempt to have a more appropriate dough-to-filling ratio.

Pierogies

Dough

• 6 to 6 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 3 large eggs
• 3 teaspoon salt
• About 3 cups lukewarm water  

Filling

• 3 potatoes
• Butter-1/2 to 3 tablespoons
• 1 onion, diced
• 3/4 cup cottage cheese, drained  
• 1/2 cup cheddar cheese
• 3 slices of  bacon, cooked till crispish and diced (you can add more bacon if you like or omit that part completely if you’re vegetarian)
• 1 poblano pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Place the flour in a large bowl or on a work surface and make a well in the center. Break the egg into it, add the salt and a little lukewarm at a time.

Bring the dough together, kneading well and adding more flour or water as necessary. Cover the dough with a bowl or towel. You’re aiming for soft, dry dough. Let it rest for 20 minutes.

While the dough rests, cut the potatoes into largish chunks. Place the chunks in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Place on the stove, bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the potatoes are easy to break apart with a fork (about 20 minutes).
 
Drain the potatoes and dump them back into the saucepan. While the potatoes are boiling, saute the onion with a little bit of butter over medium heat, until they're soft and transparent. When the onions are ready, add them to the potatoes.
 
Add the cottage cheese, cheddar cheese, bacon and poblanos. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
 
On a floured work surface, roll the dough out thinly (1/8” or about 3 millimeters) cut with a 2 to 5 inch round cookie cutter, or a glass. Spoon a portion (a teaspoon to a tablespoon, depending on the size of your cutting implement) of the filling into the middle of each circle.
 
Fold the dough in half and pinch the edges together. If necessary, wet the edges with a little bit of water to help them adhere. Gather the scraps of dough, re-roll and fill. Repeat with remaining dough.
 

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to boil. Drop in the pierogi, not too many, only single layer in the pan! Return to a boil and reduce the heat a little bit. When the pierogi rise to the surface, continue to simmer a few minutes more ( usually about 2-3 minutes).

Remove one dumpling with a slotted spoon and taste if ready. It should be firm (not mushy), but no longer doughy and raw-tasting. When satisfied, remove remaining pierogies from the water.

This part is optional--melt about 2 1/2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet. When the butter is hot enough that a pierogi placed in the pan makes a sizzling noise, add the pierogies, without crowding the pan too much, and toss them around until they're golden brown.

Ratatouille and Pan-Seared, Oven Roasted Pork Tenderloin with a Rosemary Vermouth Pan Sauce

I love ratatouille. I was making it even before that cute movie with the rat waltzed this dish into the spotlight. Did you know that Thomas Keller consulted on that movie, and he came up with the recipe on which the rat's ratatouille was based? That's why it looked so awesome. After seeing that movie, I wanted to make some of this Frenchy stew immediately. And I would have, except that it was January and this, to me, is summer food.

I therefore usually make ratatouille at least once every summer, and I had been meaning to make it for a few weeks now. I even bought a cute little eggplant at the farm stand thinking that it might end up in some ratatouille. Instead, it lingered on the counter and turned to mush. I suck.

Then I came across this article in the Guardian's blog. In it, Felicity Cloake eloquently and amusingly expounds on ratatouille in all its various permutations. And I was inspired...So here you go:

Ratatouille

• 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 red bell pepper, diced
• 1 green bell pepper, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• Salt
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 2 medium eggplant, cut into 1/2 inch dice
• 3-4 zucchini
• 28 ounce can whole tomatoes*
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
• 1/4 thinly sliced fresh basil
• 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large dutch oven, and sauté the onion, peppers, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until the vegetables are soft (about 10 minutes). Add white wine, and increase heat to high. Simmer until the white wine is almost completely evaporated, about 4 minutes, and stir in the red pepper flakes. Turn heat off.

Meanwhile, heat another 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet, add the eggplant, sprinkle with salt, and sauté until the eggplant is tender and a little bit seared. You only want to cook it about half way, which will take about 7 minutes. When the eggplant is sufficiently softened, add it to the onion pepper mixture in the dutch oven.

While the eggplant is cooking, cut the zucchini in half lengthwise. Cut each half in half lengthwise again, so that you have 4 long pieces. Cut these pieces across in 1/4 inch segments so that you are left with little quarter-moon pieces. Open the can of tomatoes and leave them in the can. Using kitchen shears, cut the tomatoes into smaller pieces.

Heat the remaining olive oil in a large skillet and sauté the zucchini until the pieces are a little bit brown, and the soft centers are just becoming a bit translucent. Again, you only want them about half-way cooked.

Add the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add this mixture to the dutch oven and add the bay leaf and thyme.

Gently simmer the contents of the dutch oven until the flavors are melded and the vegetables are tender but not mushy, about 40 minutes to an hour. Stir in the basil and parsley, and season to taste with pepper, and more salt if necessary.

*I know that it probably seems wacky to use canned tomatoes in the height of summer, but I find that fresh tomatoes tend to have a flavor that is too lacking in assertiveness for this dish. Plus, canned tomatoes are more economical for me right now, as my tomato plants turned out to be super sad specimens this year.
If I did make this with fresh tomatoes, however, I would consider roasting them first.

**************************

I love ratatouille with pork, and there just happened to be a lovely pork tenderloin in the freezer. Rather than simply brushing it with salt, pepper, and oil and grilling this tenderloin (which is yummy), we decided to go oldschool.

The rosemary in the pork's sauce was a perfect counterpoint to the basil and thyme in the ratatouille. We had some pork tenderloin, some ratatouille, and some garlic mashed potatoes, and we were in Happy Fat Land.

We used to make this recipe all the time, and we sort of OD'd on it. It seemed, though, that it was time to brush the dust off of its sheltering folder. And wow. This tenderloin is easy, delicious, and healthy. Why had we neglected it for so long?

Pan-Seared, Oven Roasted Pork Tenderloin with a Rosemary Vermouth Pan Sauce

• 1 pork tenderloin
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced shallots
• 1/4 cup vermouth
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 1-2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Coat the tenderloin with salt and pepper, and in a large skillet, heat 1-2 tablespoons canola oil over high heat. When the oil is shimmering, sear the tenderloin on all sides until it is golden brown (about 4 minutes per side).

Place the tenderloin on a foil-lined baking sheet and cook in the center of the oven until the internal temperature reads 135 degrees. Remove the tenderloin and allow it to rest.

In the meantime, melt the butter in the same skillet that was used to sear the tenderloin. Add the brown sugar, 2 tablespoons of water, and the shallots. Over medium heat, cook the shallots until soft, about 15 minutes.

Increase the heat to high and add the vermouth. If there are any brown bits remaining on the bottom of the pan, scrape them up with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula. When the vermouth has almost completely evaporated, add the chicken stock and a teaspoon of the rosemary.

Over high heat, simmer the stock until it has been reduced to a thick sauce. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper, and the rest of the rosemary if desired. (In the winter, we like to use all of the rosemary, but in the summer we prefer a more mild rosemary flavor.)

Creamless Creamed Corn

This just might be the best way I've ever found to eat fresh corn. Corn on the cob is great and all, but it sort of gets stuck in your teeth, and you end up with butter all over your face and the cobs tend to clutter up your plate.

As an alternative, I like the Golden Corn Chowder and the Corn Fritters that we've made this summer, but sometimes you just need some almost-plain corn.

That's where this recipe comes in. If you don't like cream, it's perfect; and if you feel like you just can't make creamed corn without cream, then you just need to give this a chance. Nick used to be in the cream-hating camp, and he was skeptical when told that this was on the menu. As he learned, though, this recipe is heavenly.

The corn  is enriched with a little bit of butter and some thickened corn milk. And because of the corn milk, this corn tastes even corny-er than just plain old corn. It's like corn squared; it's like pure sunshine and summer; it's like the satisfying richness of regular creamed corn without the fat greasy feeling that sometimes follows its consumption.

The basil just adds to that whole sunshine-y summery thing, and like I alluded to before, this version of creamed corn will not put you in a food coma. Food comas are rather undesirable in the summertime, don't you think?

The first time you make this recipe, you might think that it is a bit time consuming. However, this is one of those recipes that as you make it repeatedly, it seems to get easier and easier. But, even if it remains time consuming, I promise it's worth it.

Creamless Creamed Corn

(Adapted from Epicurious

Origninally from Craft)

• 12 ears of fresh corn
• 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 small yellow onion, peeled and diced
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh basil

Shuck half the corn and remove the kernels from the cobs. Place the corn in a blender and discard the cobs and husks. Purée the corn with 1/3 cup water. Press the purée through a fine sieve and reserve.

Transfer the strained corn purée into a double boiler set over barely simmering water. Cook gently, stirring frequently, until the liquid thickens to the consistency of heavy cream, about 20 minutes. Season the purée with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, shuck the remaining corn, cut the kernels from the cobs, and reserve. Melt the butter in a large, high-sided skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and salt and cook until the onion begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved corn, salt, and 1/2 cup of water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is almost tender, about 7 minutes.

Remove the corn and onion mixture from the heat and stir in the corn cream. Add the basil and adjust the seasoning if necessary with salt and pepper.

Tomato Tart

A tomato tart had been on the extended to-do list for quite a while now. It's a common dish in both French and Italian cuisine, and it's great as an appetizer, a snack, part of a light dinner, or as a side.

We had been little piggies all week, so we decided that we needed a light, summery dinner. Our old stand-by Golden Corn Chowder, paired with a tomato tart, fit the bill perfectly. Plus, like I mentioned before, I like to OD on highly seasonal ingredients, and I figured this would help.

We used a very mild goat cheese, but you could use any cheese that melts well, such as comte, haloumi, or even mozzarella.

Tomato Tart

Crust

• 2 tablespoons almonds with skins, toasted and cooled
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• Pinch of fine sea salt
• 1/2 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 large egg yolk
• 3 1/2 tablespoons fruity olive oil (preferably French)
• About a tablespoon Dijon mustard (optional)

Filling

• 4 ripe tomatoes, sliced about 1/4 inch thick
• 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs (We used summer savory, thyme, and oregano. You could also use marjoram, tarragon, basil, or anything else you feel like throwing in there.)
• 3 ounces mild goat cheese
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in middle.

Pulse almonds with flour, sugar, and sea salt to a fine powder in a food processor. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal with some small (roughly pea-size) butter lumps.

Add yolk and oil and pulse until just incorporated and a very soft dough has formed. Form into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill until firm, about 30 minutes.

Spread dough evenly over bottom and up side of pan.
Bake shell until golden brown all over, about 13 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool a bit.

When the tart has cooled enough that it's not very hot to the touch, arrange the tomatoes in a spiral. (Optional: first brush the crust with a thin coating of Dijon mustard.) Sprinkle half of the fresh herbs over the tomatoes, and spread chunks of the goat cheese around as well. Sprinkle the rest of the herbs over the tart, and season with salt and pepper.

Drizzle with olive oil, and bake in the center of the oven for about 40 minutes, until the tart dough is golden brown, the tomatoes are tender, and the cheese is browned.

Optional-drizzle with balsamic vinegar to serve.

This tart is good served either warm or at room temperature, but it's best the day it's made.

Another Favorite Sauce: Basil Pesto

I can't even think of sufficient superlatives for this super sauce. I just love it. I could talk about how it's so summery, delicious, versatile, blah, blah, blah. But you probably already know all that.

So here's a great recipe for this Italian classic. I love to make quadruple batches and freeze them in little portions, much like I do with Romesco. They defrost quickly, so that you can have quick shot of summer in the icy depths of winter...you know.

Basil Pesto

• 2 cups (packed) fresh basil leaves
• 1 garlic clove
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• Scant 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• About 1/3 cup good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts

In a blender or food processor, pulse the basil, garlic, salt, pepper, and Parmesan cheese until finely chopped. With the motor running, gradually add enough oil to form a smooth, thick paste. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the pine nuts. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
When storing this pesto, press plastic wrap onto its surface so that minimal discoloration occurs.
Can also be frozen for at least 6 months.

A Summer Obsession: Zucchini Feta Fritters

(The first flower of the year--an anemone)

Last year, this was an oft-repeated conversation around our place:

Nick: So what are we having for dinner?
Me: Uuuuummmmm...I kinda sorta wanted to make some zucchini patties.
Nick: (Eyes widening in disbelief) Seriously? Really? Again?
Me: Yeah, sorry. I can make another side for you.
Nick: Um, that might be a good idea.

I had thought that last year's hard-core addiction to these zucchini fritters would have cured me of my never-ending lust for their vegetable-y, cheesy goodness. But it didn't. When I told Nick the other day that I wanted to make them just once in honor of the start of summer, this pronouncement again had the Eye-Widening Effect. "Is this going to be a problem?" he asked.

"I don't think so," I said, "I think I can make them just this once and be okay."

Five batches later, Nick is again begging for mercy and I'm considering zucchini rehab.


I think you should try these fritters, although Nick might beg to differ. Their herby, zucchini-y lightness is perfectly countered by the saltiness of the feta cheese. They're not too heavy to make an enjoyable summer treat, but at the same time they're wickedly satisfying in the way patties of pan-seared, shredded vegetables tend to be. These are extremely easy to whip up, and they're delicious hot, at room temperature, and even cold. They're great as sides, appetizers, or snacks. 

Zucchini Feta Fritters

(Adapted from Epicurious)

• 3 cups coarsely grated zucchini (from about 3 medium)
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• 1 large egg
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1/2 cup (or more) all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley
• 1/2 cup chopped green onions
• 1 tablespoon chiffonade (cut into ribbons) fresh basil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon canola oil, plus more as needed

Toss zucchini and 1/2 teaspoon salt in large bowl. Let stand 5 minutes. Transfer to sieve. Press out excess liquid; place zucchini in dry bowl.


Mix in egg, yolk, 1/2 cup flour, cheese, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Mix in parsley, onions, and basil. If batter is very wet, add more flour by spoonfuls. However, if liquid is leaking out because the batter has been sitting for a few minutes, do not add more flour. Only add more flour if the homogeneous batter is runny. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon canola oil in large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, drop batter by rounded tablespoonfuls into skillet, and flatten to a 1.4 inch thickness. Fry patties until golden, about 5 minutes per side, adding more canola oil as needed.


These can be made a day ahead of time and rewarmed in a 350 degree oven. They can also be made ahead of time and served room temperature.

Epicurious suggests that these patties be served with plain Greek yogurt, but I find it unnecessary. The last time I made these, I added a couple tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, which was quite nice, but it's optional.